It’s critical you get it inspected pre-purchase. But before you even get to that point...
Your eyes:
Panel gaps. Are they even, and consistent? Aftermarket parts aren’t perfect, but if one side of the hatch or hood has a glaringly different gap, that could mean the vehicle structure wasn’t pulled/repaired correctly. Sometimes this is purely cosmetic and will just make things look bad, other times it could mean you’ll never get the alignment right...
Tire wear. Are there any wear patterns that indicate an alignment or suspension issue (cupped, feathered, rough etc.)
Inspect the paint. You’re not looking for a flawless cosmetic repair job. You’re looking for which panels have been repainted, and if it matches what the seller is saying was damaged. For example, if the right front was damaged, is there overspray in the left rear wheel well? Get in your knees and look at the underside of that rocker, is there evidence of rust penetration or questionable repair? If the whole vehicle was repainted, why? Most shops/customers aren’t going to pay for a full respray on a run of the mill vehicle, especially a van, if there was localized damage.
Check for signed of ‘massaged’ holes, missing fasteners or loose components. Grab the headlights, rad supports, sliding doors and give them a wiggle. If the repairer wasn’t able to get all the fasteners in the right location, that’s a red flag.
Check all lights and accessories, and pay close attention to the instrument panel with the key ‘on’. All those lights should come on (ABS, Check Engine etc). If they don’t, did someone pull the bulb? “The bulb is burnt out” is not an acceptable answer.
Test drive:
Does the vehicle track straight
Does it perform as it should
Wind noise from around the doors
Mechanically, you won’t know much. You probably won’t be able to see if the motor is original or if the drivetrain requires work. But that’s what your inspection is for. What you want to do is make sure the vehicle is even worth inspecting, and it’ll take no more than 15 minutes, in daylight, to check all the above.
Call your insurance agent and ask them to confirm. But if it’s ‘rebuilt’ it should have already undergone it’s required inspection. This DOES NOT mean it shouldn’t have an inspection. Never ever trust the inspection report from the guy selling it. But if it’s already passed the salvage inspection, you don’t need to worry so much about not being able to at least put it on the road.
If it’s still ‘salvage’, don’t bother.
Also, there are plenty of perfectly good ‘rebuilt’ vehicles. A hail storm can write a car off, as can a relatively minor fender bender. A rebuilt can be a great value, and when repaired competently will perform like any other car.
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No, no…I’m not sloppy, or lazy. This is a sign of the boredom.
Last edited by 81MC; 09-08-2021 at 03:26 PM.
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