I lived on the Royal Mile as a student so here are a few things that I thought were cool...
Edinburgh Castle is a must see of course; the lineup for tickets was the worst thing so if you can buy in advance, do it. I always recommend the open top bus tour; it will give you a chance to get your bearings and of course see around the old and new town (both will be old to you) and learn lots of cool stuff...like where listerine was invented.
I also recommend the new museum; very well done. Greyfriar's Bobby is close, and Greyfriars Kirk is right there too. Take a ghost tour! You will also be walking where JK Rowling was writing, so in Greyfriars Kirk you will see many of her inspirations on headstones. Mary King's close is also interesting as well, where you get to go under the royal mile. It reminded me too much of my student days though! it is apparently very haunted, so if that sort of thing creeps you out...don't go. (hehheh)
Arthurs Seat is also awesome, but make sure that you wear appropriate footwear and clothing. Holyrood Palace is interesting too, but I am overly reluctant to start spewing castles and churches at you. Do go into St. Giles though, also on the royal mile across from Mary King's Close.
Make sure to have a pint or two on the mile (I recommend my local the Jolly Judge or Deacon Brodies), and of course a pub lunch if you can swing it. The Grassmarket has some really nice pubs as well and depending upon the weather, you can eat/drink outside and look up at the castle.
No one mentions Calton Hill but there are some pretty amazing views from there as well; I think the bus tour might still go up there. Princes Street is decent for shopping on one side and the castle/old loch on the other.
One other thing that I usually recommend (for Scottish people only (!)) is to read this book: How Scots Invented the Modern World. You can find it on Amazon etc but it is quite amazing when you read it. You will recognize a lot when you are there and of course make the trip more memorable as you won't have to read every sign everywhere. Here is a synopsis: Who formed the first literate society? Who invented our modern ideas of democracy and free market capitalism? The Scots. As historian and author Arthur Herman reveals, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries Scotland made crucial contributions to science, philosophy, literature, education, medicine, commerce, and politics—contributions that have formed and nurtured the modern West ever since.
The only thing that can top this book is "How the Scots Invented Canada", but you already know that!
get a round of golf or 9 holes in if you can, no matter the course. you will never forget it because golfing in Scotland is like nothing else. The courses (especially as you head north) are basically carved out of the countryside with some nice grass at the end with a hole and flag in it.
When I was there, I used to wear my different flames gear going to classes or out for a pint. Learn how to drink Guinness before you go, and then have a Guinness Cold when there. Man, drinking that is like breathing!
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