Quote:
Originally Posted by ken0042
While I admit the build quality on RVs is pretty bad, I haven't had too many issues with my trailer. I would tend to buy new again if I was buying a new one. Some tips I can offer:
- Make sure you have enough sleeping space without using the dinette as an extra bed. Keep in mind your kids' age; will your 12 year old boy be too big for that bed in 4 years? Will your 8 year old want to bring a friend along for camping trips?
- Look closely at the holding tank capacity. My black tank is bigger than my grey; and we put twice as much water into the grey tank.
- Furnace noise. I have a small trailer so this can't be helped, but the furnace is too close to the beds.
- Don't look at the dry weight of the trailer for towing capacity. From the dealer the trailer will weigh 200-500 pounds more; plus all of your stuff. I am easily 1000 pounds over my dry weight; and with a small trailer we don't have as much stuff as we could.
- With weight in mind- make sure you are at least 10-20% below your vehicle's towing capacity.
- Get a weight distribution hitch. Saves fuel, easier to tow, and less likely to have the trailer wagging your vehicle.
- Price out trailers in the States, and use a fair exchange rate to see what a "good" price is. This is also peak buying season, so it's harder to make a deal. I bought my trailer in October and was able to negotiate a good deal.
I'm sure I'll have more to add later.
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I am going to put in my 2 cents.
Be careful when looking at Towing Capacity as it may not be the limiting factor. In my experience it is almost always Payload. Granted I am towing with a half ton, so this may be less of an issue if you have a "real" truck.
Make sure you are using the right towing and payload capacities, as the numbers mentioned in all of the brochures and marketing are for stripped down base model, regular cab long boxes, not a fully loaded supercrew. The payload capacity of your truck is listed on a yellow sticker on the driver side door frame on trucks newer than 2005.
If you are towing with a half ton, expect to have a payload of less than 1700lbs (sometimes as low as 1300lbs) depending on trim level. which means by the time you add
-The driver
-Your passengers (with infant/child seats, booster seats, etc.)
-Any food, snacks and drinks
-Any games, toys, activities and diaper bags for the kids
-Guides, maps, travel directories
-Firewood, generators, camping chairs, tables, and other supplies
-And, of course- your hitch
and cargo you might be down to less than 700-1000lbs of available payload
Trailer Pin Weight for a bumper pull will be between 12%-15% of the towing weight (not dry weight) of the trailer. If you are towing a trailer that has a weight when loaded of 8000lbs, your tongue weight could be anywhere from 960lbs - 1200lbs. so you are overweight on a truck that has a "tow capacity" of 11,100lbs (Ford F150)
Never trust the dealer when they tell you your truck can handle a trailer. I know a few folks who found themselves buying new trucks when they were oversold a trailer.
Background: I tow with a 2013 F150 with Max Tow and the Payload Package (rare). I tow a 7000lb trailer. The truck handles it and I have brought it to the scales and all specs are inline with the truck capacities (GCVWR, RAWR, GVWR). With my previous truck I was 20% over on the rear axel towing with a 2010 F150 with the Max Tow Package (no payload package)