The Midtown Tavern was my favorite dive in Halifax. It was awesome... in the middle of an old historic town was the Midtown, full of faux wood grain formica and cheap fake stonework right out of the 1960's. It has moved, and has probably lost a lot of the "charm" but for me it was the most authentic Halifax pub. The Triangle is pretty good, it's in an old historic building and the food is pretty good, and there's live music, but the Midtown was tops for me and it was the best place in Halifax for a Keith's and some deep fried pepperoni.
And forget a harbour cruise, just take the ferry somewhere. Go to Dartmouth/Alderney Landing and walk around the old part of Dartmouth, even just for the view of Halifax from across the Harbour. Or better yet, take the ferry to Woodside and go to John's Lunch. It's a little diner/fish and chips joint. It is a little bit of a dive like the Midtown used to be, but I love it anyway.
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