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Originally Posted by trublmaker
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He was regarded as the best climber in the world at the time and ALWAYS acclimitized properly so he never used oxygen on any of his climbs whereas these tourists NEVER acclimized. Yes read both but I didn't like how they blamed anatoli for the failures especially when he asked Krakauer to help but he didn't want to and outdoor magazine wouldn't print Anatoli's rebuttal to Krakauers version
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The death rate of climbers going without oxygen is twice as high as those with oxygen. This does not consider that the no oxygen climber is almost always a real mountaineer and not a tourist. So the risk becomes quite high. Also when not guiding he is able to travel fast without hinderance so he can get up and down quickly. While guiding you are at the pace of your slowest client.
All that said I would say the original article in outdoor was far more anti Anatoli, Hall and Scott than the book was. I found his book to be much more blaming the industry than individuals wheras the Climb seem to almost treat it like another day on the mountain, almost a cold detached asessment, which would be expected from a hardened mountaineer vs an experienced amateur.