Krakow is definitely a cool city.
Old City is great but quite touristy. To get away from that, you can hit up the former Jewish area, Kazimierz. There are a lot of great restaurants and pubs in this area, which are also patronized by locals.
Eat some Zur soup(sometimes called Zurek). Perogies too. All their food is delicious but that soup really sticks out in my mind. Drink beer and vodka. Vodka comes in all different flavours. All booze and food is dirt cheap.
The salt mine which was mention was worth seeing too.
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