Quote:
Originally Posted by Kybosh
To get to your goals I would suggest that you alter your climbing schedule a bit. I'm primarily a boulderer so I may be a bit biased  , but I would recommend increasing the amount of time you spend bouldering to 40 or 50%. You will see results, I guarantee it. You're absolutely right that the risk for injury is greater (I've blown two finger pulleys to date and messed up one shoulder once) but if you take it slow you won't have a problem. When you boulder the trick is to seperate your sessions into either an endurance/traversing session or a power session. The endurance sessions are all about only using easy holds and staying on the wall for extended periods. You won't have the rope to help you out so all the gains will be on you. For the power days, go hard on some routes that are at the edge of your ability but stop before you are too fatigued and could injure yourself. |
Yeah I'm concentrating on bouldering too. Generally only do bouldering, almost zero time on top rope or lead. Three 2.5 hour sessions a week or so with some exercises afterwards like push ups, planks/bridges, crunches and some other core work.
I should maybe try and do an endurance session every once in a while. The bouldering wall at my gym is small though, hard to find a good spot where you can boulder for like 3 minutes straight.