I usually don't even complain about food, nevermind send it back.
There are pricks out there that just enjoy being pricks and couldn't care less about how apologetic you were when you sent it back. They're more than happy to give you a little treat for your efforts.
Just eat it and complain afterward, and then don't go back. Or if it's absolutely inedible, then just complain and refuse to pay for it and then leave. Obviously, you can't eat everything first and then complain.
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