@ 4x4 wow - thanks for all the info - looks like excellent stuff that i'll need to read in more detail to get a halfway decent plan worked out (and then just forget it and wing it once we get there
)
to answer a couple of the questions you had - we're spending 3 weeks in italy. 2 down in some small towns in calabria to get married and meet all the new inlaws and then one week to ourselves in rome. i've been trying to pick up some italian but am having a hell of a time. i've got the basics down but beyond that it gets pretty sketchy. luckily the wife is fluent so i got myself a free pass.
i'll probably have some more questions for you once i have a chance to read through some more of your info in better detail.