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Old 06-10-2014, 04:10 PM   #21
pylon
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FYI, Boulton Creek and Elkford is without running water and showers, and I believe this is supposed to run for the entire season. They mentioned some sort of upgrades being done. To me it doesn't mean much, but for the full service, 86 foot, 9th wheel, Sattelite Dish, deca-slideout, 12 man hot tub, bang and Olufssen home theatre equipped luxury campers, it might be an issue.
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #22
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Some basic amounts of power various thing draw. Some of my numbers are a little high just to allow for a certain margin of error.

- A/C 14-18 amps. I have been successful at turning on my A/C at home on 15 amp power, but I had to do it very carefully. Turn on the fan first, let it spin up, then A/C on low. However you cannot have anything else turned on.
- Fridge is about 5 amps.
- Electric water heater- 12 amps
- Microwave- 12 amps
- 12 volt power adapter- 3 amps on standby
- each incandescent bulb is about 1/4 amp.
- Furnace- 2 amps

So add up the cumulative amps based on power you have. If you have 15 amp power, as mentioned A/C likely won't work. I typically put my fridge into propane mode if I have 15 amp power, then keep in mind you can only use one of the water heater or microwave at any given time. And if using the either one, make sure the furnace isn't due to cut in or you don't have a dozen lights burning.

If you have 20 amp power available, you can use A/C by itself, or one of water heater or microwave without really having to worry about other things. With 30 amp service, you really don't have to worry at all about what is on with too much.

A few other quick points:
Walmart often has RV parts cheap. Like a drinking water hose for $12

Regarding using the batteries, you have 100 amp hours in most batteries; however you don't want to drain them below 50%, so 50 amp hours. So that gives you either:
- 166 hours of fridge use on propane mode
- 12 hours of water pump use
- 33 hours of incandescent bulb use, or 350 hours of LED bulb use. (Both 921 style bulbs)

So just looking at 2 of those, if you only have 1 hour of water pump use, that brings your incandescent bulb use down to 30 hours. Have 3 bulbs running, and you are down to 10 hours. (I hope that makes sense- trying to do this quickly.)

You can also plug into your truck and run the engine to charge the battery, but you only put back 2 amps per hour. So running your truck for 4 hours only gives you 8 amps back into the battery.

Just to weigh In to help clarify on circuit loading.

A 15 Amp breaker is rated to be loaded to 80% of the value (15)

Anything over 12 A will likely cause nuisance tripping.

This can be said for the 20-30 etc...

Over current device (breaker, fuse) are there to protect the wire and it's insulation. Aka avoid fires.

Sorry threw the last part in for " learn something new everyday" hopefully it helps in finding the "sweet" spot for loading.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:21 PM   #23
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Are those LEDs universal for all trailers? I bought a Jayco last year and need to replace some bulbs.
Most trailers I have seen take 2 types of bulbs- 1157 and 921 automotive bulbs. The 1157 is a standard number you can find LEDs for online, but for the 921s you are looking for T10 bulbs.

The one thing with the T10s is they are polarized, so they will only work going in one way. Make sure you test each bulb as you install it; I'm not sure if putting it in backwards simply doesn't work, or if it causes damage.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:40 PM   #24
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Most trailers I have seen take 2 types of bulbs- 1157 and 921 automotive bulbs. The 1157 is a standard number you can find LEDs for online, but for the 921s you are looking for T10 bulbs.

The one thing with the T10s is they are polarized, so they will only work going in one way. Make sure you test each bulb as you install it; I'm not sure if putting it in backwards simply doesn't work, or if it causes damage.
Led = light emitting diode

Diodes will only conduct current in one direction. You are correct about proper polarity. Putting them in reverse should not cause you any trouble. Simply swap the polarity and you're all good. No damage.

Ok I'm done now
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:06 PM   #25
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Hope this isn't off topic but I was looking for some opinions on a generator.

I have a obscene amount of Home Depot gift cards and after about 2 hours of looking on the site I decided I know absolutely nothing about generators. I'm looking for something I can use to charge up the batteries on week long trips and is sub 100lbs.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:18 PM   #26
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I find MEC has a great selection of anything camping related it's just too bad there is only one in the city (and it's downtown)
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:51 PM   #27
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Hope this isn't off topic but I was looking for some opinions on a generator.

I have a obscene amount of Home Depot gift cards and after about 2 hours of looking on the site I decided I know absolutely nothing about generators. I'm looking for something I can use to charge up the batteries on week long trips and is sub 100lbs.
IMO, there's really only 3 choices in Generators. Of course Honda and Yamaha are at the top and they are excellent if you can swing it. If your going to go cheap then the Champion generators are the best of the chinese generators with the best support. (they can be purchased at Costco so of course easy returns)

Some have had good luck with Kipor, Generac, etc. but to me they are too close in price to a H or Y so you may as well spend a bit more and get them.

In other words, it seems to make no sense to me to buy in the middle ground, either go high end or go cheap. In any case for camping you want an inverter style generator that idles down according to the load required. Those contractor style are very noisy and will make your camping neighbours hate you.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'd buy anything that I see on the home depot site.

$0.02
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:01 PM   #28
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^
I can always buy a new BBQ instead.

I will look for a Honda or Yamaha
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:40 PM   #29
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^
I can always buy a new BBQ instead.

I will look for a Honda or Yamaha
I've seen some awesome reviews on the Champion 3000w inverter. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...enerator/70829

I just spent the whole evening at 3 walmarts and 1 Canadian tire trying to find a water hose. Wow does no one work at any of those stores. Trying to find someone, let alone someone that knows what "potable" or "drinking water safe" means.

Finally managed to find one at the third walmart.

Still need pressure regulator and LED Lights (no hurry). Also something to test my batteries but I still don't know what I'm looking for. Generator to come in the latter half of summer.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:40 PM   #30
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Where's a good/cheap place to find supplies like this



From what I've heard this is essential in knowing that the drain has finished emptying so you don't open with poop or gret water flowing out, or trickling out.

Or maybe it's this one?


Also items like pressure regulator, electric supplies, trailer toilet paper, etc.

Also does anyone use chemicals in their black/grey tanks?
I have the top one and you would be stunned at the amount of crap, literally, that comes out after you think you are done. I also have a Sewer Solution.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It "mulches" the stuff when you dump by using a water jet. This allows a much smaller hose to be used. You can also see when it is "clean". The other nice feature is that you can turn the jet back into the holding tank to rinse it out. Again, you can see the amount of stuff that comes out after you do this.

Another tip I have heard is to not leave your tanks open. Let them fill and then dump them. This allows the stuff a chance to breakdown and it "flushes" out the tanks better. With the sewer solution you have to do it this way but I have heard even when you use the normal hose that is what you should do.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:45 PM   #31
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I should also add that if you do get a clear elbow to make sure it is a single piece. I made this mistake and of course it came apart under pressure. Mine is the orange rhinoflex, I think it is called. don't buy that. the one above looks much better.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:59 PM   #32
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Ummm... Do I need a hose from the end of my grey / black tank to go to the sani dump hole?

I didn't even think about that. All I have is a red elbow that attaches to the main pipe that empties either the grey or black.

Better get some gloves too - nasty business.
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Old 06-11-2014, 07:41 AM   #33
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Mine is the orange rhinoflex, I think it is called. don't buy that. the one above looks much better.
What issues have you had? I have the rhino and it works great; at least it feels sturdy and makes me feel good that it isn't about to fail catastrophically at the worst possible time.

I also bought a box of disposable gloves for dumping duty. I pull out a couple of pairs at a time and keep them in a ziplock bag.

Also, if your trailer doesn't have an external storage for your sewer hose, buy yourself one of these:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...er-black/58990
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:01 AM   #34
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Another tip I have heard is to not leave your tanks open. Let them fill and then dump them. This allows the stuff a chance to breakdown and it "flushes" out the tanks better. With the sewer solution you have to do it this way but I have heard even when you use the normal hose that is what you should do.
You should try not to empty your black tank unless it is at least half full, it will empty much easier when there is more in it.

Also to add to what Ken said about storing the sewer hose, if you have a hollow bumper that is where you can store the hose.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:22 AM   #35
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Also, if your trailer doesn't have an external storage for your sewer hose, buy yourself one of these:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...er-black/58990
A Rhinoflex won't fit in those as the fittings are too large. A better way if you can find it is to use a 5" fence post cover. You can also use a piece of eavestrough as a drawer inside the tube which can also be used as a support for your hose if you're setup on a full service site for an extended period.

Last edited by hedge; 06-11-2014 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:24 AM   #36
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Ummm... Do I need a hose from the end of my grey / black tank to go to the sani dump hole?

I didn't even think about that. All I have is a red elbow that attaches to the main pipe that empties either the grey or black.

Better get some gloves too - nasty business.
Yes you need the hose, just buy the Rhinoflex available from Walmart, CT etc. It comes with everything you need other than possibly a sewer donut but you usually don't need those up here, more common in the states.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:34 AM   #37
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I should also add that if you do get a clear elbow to make sure it is a single piece. I made this mistake and of course it came apart under pressure. Mine is the orange rhinoflex, I think it is called. don't buy that. the one above looks much better.
Do you mean the Rhinoflex brand '45 fitting' came apart? thanks for the heads up, I just got one but haven't used it yet.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:38 AM   #38
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Yes you need the hose, just buy the Rhinoflex available from Walmart, CT etc. It comes with everything you need other than possibly a sewer donut but you usually don't need those up here, more common in the states.
Thankfully someone mentioned storing it in the bumper, I'm pretty sure that's where mine must be. Went through everything with the seller when we bought it, but excitement and worry about hauling it home left my brain prepared to forget 99% of what we went over

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Do you mean the Rhinoflex brand '45 fitting' came apart? thanks for the heads up, I just got one but haven't used it yet.
Where did you get this?

You above post mentioned walmart or CT. I spent way too much time in those stores yesterday. No employee seems to know anything nor could I find any of the stuff we needed.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:45 AM   #39
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Thankfully someone mentioned storing it in the bumper, I'm pretty sure that's where mine must be. Went through everything with the seller when we bought it, but excitement and worry about hauling it home left my brain prepared to forget 99% of what we went over
One thing I would recommend is to keep a list of #### that doesn't work properly during your camping season so you can take it back to the dealership to get all the little things fixed up under warranty. There will be stuff that comes up and if you don't make a list you will forget it and then have to pay to fix it yourself eventually.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:47 AM   #40
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One thing I would recommend is to keep a list of #### that doesn't work properly during your camping season so you can take it back to the dealership to get all the little things fixed up under warranty. There will be stuff that comes up and if you don't make a list you will forget it and then have to pay to fix it yourself eventually.
Private sale, 2011 unit, so I doubt there's any warranty left.
But thanks!
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