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Old 06-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #41
ken0042
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A Rhinoflex won't fit in those as the fittings are too large.
I guess I better take my Rhinoflex hose out of mine then........

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Old 06-11-2014, 08:50 AM   #42
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well my truck camper came with one of those storage tubes and the Rhinoflex doesn't fit and if you read the reviews on the link you posted or on Amazon other people have the same problem... so no idea how yours fits.

Last edited by hedge; 06-11-2014 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:53 AM   #43
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Where did you get this?

You above post mentioned walmart or CT. I spent way too much time in those stores yesterday. No employee seems to know anything nor could I find any of the stuff we needed.
I got it from Amazon, but I've seen them at RV stores as well.
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:43 AM   #44
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Just thought that I'd make a quick note about a recent experience with generators.

I have owned one of the 2000w Champion inverter generators for a couple years, it has never given me any problems at all. It wouldn't run the A/C on my trailer but I never expected it to.

I recently moved to a truck camper and had a smaller 9200 btu a/c unit installed. I was hoping that I could run it with the little Champion but when I tried it it would overload immediately, I had everything off and eco mode disabled but it still failed immediately.

After some investigation on rv.net other folks were saying they could run it with a Honda 2000 so I gritted my teeth and purchased the Honda. The Honda starts it with eco mode on with no problem and I can even have the fridge on.

I'm still a fan of Champion generators but I think think their watts rating (on the 2000 anyways) is a bit optimistic.

PS: sorry for taking over the thread
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:48 AM   #45
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Quote:
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Just thought that I'd make a quick note about a recent experience with generators.

I have owned one of the 2000w Champion inverter generators for a couple years, it has never given me any problems at all. It wouldn't run the A/C on my trailer but I never expected it to.

I recently moved to a truck camper and had a smaller 9200 btu a/c unit installed. I was hoping that I could run it with the little Champion but when I tried it it would overload immediately, I had everything off and eco mode disabled but it still failed immediately.

After some investigation on rv.net other folks were saying they could run it with a Honda 2000 so I gritted my teeth and purchased the Honda. The Honda starts it with eco mode on with no problem and I can even have the fridge on.

I'm still a fan of Champion generators but I think think their watts rating (on the 2000 anyways) is a bit optimistic.

PS: sorry for taking over the thread
Interesting and good info for any of us looking for a generator.
I think anything camping related fits the thread, my first post was all over the place!
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:23 PM   #46
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I'm confused; why do you guys need power to run the fridge and water heater on propane? I can have the batteries out and still run mine.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:24 PM   #47
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I'm confused; why do you guys need power to run the fridge and water heater on propane? I can have the batteries out and still run mine.
I believe newer models have the electric ignition, which requires the battery.

Never tried running mine without the batteries, but I doubt it would work.

Edit: Oh, that and the thermostat in the fridge/heater would also be electric.

Last edited by Hockeyguy15; 06-11-2014 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:39 PM   #48
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Interesting and good info for any of us looking for a generator.
I think anything camping related fits the thread, my first post was all over the place!
As far as generators go, I bought the Yamaha 2400i and it's been awesome. It's pretty quiet for it size. Only drawback is it's a bit heavy. The Honda are better in that regard.
Depending on what you need it for, you could also look into solar panels. They work great (not if your wanting to run AC or the M/W though).

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Old 06-11-2014, 12:41 PM   #49
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FYI, Boulton Creek and Elkford is without running water and showers, and I believe this is supposed to run for the entire season. They mentioned some sort of upgrades being done. To me it doesn't mean much, but for the full service, 86 foot, 9th wheel, Sattelite Dish, deca-slideout, 12 man hot tub, bang and Olufssen home theatre equipped luxury campers, it might be an issue.
Still? they were doing this last year and the dump station has been closed for at least 2 years.....

Can you still fill up jugs out of big tanks in the parking lot?

Is the Canyon station still open?

Thansk for the info BTW!
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:43 PM   #50
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Edit: Oh, that and the thermostat in the fridge/heater would also be electric.
I bought a DC power meter designed for people who have model airplanes, and used it to test how much power various things draw off the batteries. The numbers are all watts, so divide by 12 to get amps. A few things that I tested:

Stereo (in standby mode) and CO detector- 2 watts (Both are on same circuit)
1157 LED bulbs- 3.3 watts (each)
921 LED bulbs- 1.1 watts (each)
Stereo playing USB video; volume between 2 to 4- 14 watts
Stereo playing USB video; volume at 12- 18 watts
Furnace motor- 33 watts
RCA 19” TV- 20 watts
Antenna power booster- 1.5 watts
Water pump- 36 watts normally, 48 watts surge at startup
Water heater- 8 watts constant
Fridge- 3.5 watts constant

The water heater was a bit of a surprise. So even when it isn't firing it has a significant drain on your battery. That will take 16 of your amp hours away per day if you left it on 24/7. So now when I dry camp I only fire it up when I need it.

I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I seem to recall my test on an incandescent 921 bulb was right around 20 watts. So the LED bulbs are significant in how little power they draw.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:45 PM   #51
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Quote:
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FYI, Boulton Creek and Elkford is without running water and showers, and I believe this is supposed to run for the entire season. They mentioned some sort of upgrades being done. To me it doesn't mean much, but for the full service, 86 foot, 9th wheel, Sattelite Dish, deca-slideout, 12 man hot tub, bang and Olufssen home theatre equipped luxury campers, it might be an issue.
Translation: I'm a real camper. All others are not.

Wanting to take our 19 month old out this summer and we've earmarked the August long weekend to hook up with my parents - they'll have their trailer and we'll be tenting. Obviously at this point most reservable sites are taken so we're looking for other possibilities within a 2 hour drive of Calgary that would be good for toddlers. Thanks all.

Last edited by Ruttiger; 06-11-2014 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:53 PM   #52
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I believe newer models have the electric ignition, which requires the battery.

Never tried running mine without the batteries, but I doubt it would work.

Edit: Oh, that and the thermostat in the fridge/heater would also be electric.
That makes sense. The Twinkie still has its trusty old 3-way Dometic fridge, and runs pilot lights for it and the water heater on thermocouples. Lighting those is easy enough, and as Ken said, less current draw.
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:07 PM   #53
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A reminder to all to empty your hot water tank if you go early spring camping...... Was out mid march and forgot and it froze up and split during the cold snap at the end of march..... Fairly easy to get it out and replace the inner tank but it is costly.

We buy most of our stuff at Crappy tire or walmart, cheaper than RV dealer. Except I did find a 9x18 awning mat at Bucars for $85.

I am planning on switching to LED this year.

Also just put the fuse in my F150 to allow it to charge the trailer. Not sure why this fuse isn't in there from the factory but what can you do.

We bought our sewer hose on amazon.ca last year, they seem to have reasonable pricing as well for RV parts.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also add one of these if it doesn't have it already to winterize yourself. Easy to install.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All that I have left is the vent cover to install, then I can maybe enjoy my camping and not be working on my trailer......
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:39 PM   #54
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Do you mean the Rhinoflex brand '45 fitting' came apart? thanks for the heads up, I just got one but haven't used it yet.
This is the one I have.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because it can rotate the clear part came out of the orange part. Under pressure. That was a fun day.
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Old 06-11-2014, 04:41 PM   #55
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I actually bought this as well:

It alllows you to use a compressor to blow out the plumbing when winterizing. Have used it two years and works really well.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:16 PM   #56
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These what I want? I pulled my bulbs and they were 921, the exterior, bathroom ceiling, seems like all the lights are 921
http://www.dx.com/p/t15-t13-921-1-3w...7#.U5jjIG9OWAg

hmm, maybe not - in the 2013 thread it said T10, not sure what I need. I just have little glass bulbs I pulled that have a 921 written on them.

This one is a T10, but doesn't say 921 anywhere.
http://www.dx.com/p/t10-194-w5w-0-5w...6#.U5jlum9OWAg

Last edited by ranchlandsselling; 06-11-2014 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:54 PM   #57
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I actually bought this as well:

It alllows you to use a compressor to blow out the plumbing when winterizing. Have used it two years and works really well.
That works well in milder climates like northern California where they don't get nearly as cold as we do here. The big thing is that while I don't doubt it worked well for you the last 2 years, there is no way to tell if it will work next year, or 3 years from now. There is no safe way to ensure you don't have a pocket of water somewhere. Then all it takes is a cold snap where we go from a week of above zero to -25 and staying that cold, and the water freezes too fast before it has a chance to expand laterally within the pipe. Then the pipe cracks.

With antifreeze, you know it worked because the liquid coming out becomes pink.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:00 PM   #58
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These what I want? I pulled my bulbs and they were 921, the exterior, bathroom ceiling, seems like all the lights are 921
http://www.dx.com/p/t15-t13-921-1-3w...7#.U5jjIG9OWAg

hmm, maybe not - in the 2013 thread it said T10, not sure what I need. I just have little glass bulbs I pulled that have a 921 written on them.

This one is a T10, but doesn't say 921 anywhere.
http://www.dx.com/p/t10-194-w5w-0-5w...6#.U5jlum9OWAg
Those will "work", but aren't nearly bright enough. They are advertised to be about 40-50% as bright as a regular bulb.

However you are right that you want the T10 to replace your 921 bulbs. With North American auto bulbs the numbers mean something; this may not be right, but 921 is rated for 21 watts at 9 volts. Because LEDs don't use wattage the same, they simply refer to the base most of the time. Your 921 bulbs have a T10 base.

You want at least 200 Lumens; which is brightness. These are 270 lm:
http://www.dx.com/p/t10-2-5w-270lm-1...6#.U5jtG5j4CY0

Or these at 170:
http://www.dx.com/p/t10-1-9w-6500k-1...8#.U5jtfpj4CY0
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:25 PM   #59
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I'm still on the fence about the generator. Went to 3 stores today and they all said buying a $1500 generator to charge up my batteries 4-5 times a year is overkill and directed me to lower wattage and cheaper models. I don't plan on using my AC on the generator so perhaps I should look at a lower wattage (and in turn quieter) model.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:33 PM   #60
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Maybe this thread should be renamed "The 2014 RV Thread"
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