10-04-2016, 11:45 PM
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#1081
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Lifetime Suspension
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
2nd and 3rd on the roxul. Blow in will slump, don't bother.
Have you considered spray foam? In your application would be beneficial.
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Spray foam would be significantly more expensive and it's just an unheated garage so I'm being cheap.
If I were building a house I'd do spray foam in a heart beat though.
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10-05-2016, 06:17 AM
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#1082
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Powerplay Quarterback
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Roxul is easy, you'd be able to get the whole thing done in a day if you went that route and it won't slump/settle.
The garage is already all wired for electrical? If not, do it now. I'd say two outlets per wall, two on the ceiling and a 240v plug would be minimum
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10-05-2016, 06:32 AM
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#1083
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Lifetime Suspension
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llwhiteoutll
Roxul is easy, you'd be able to get the whole thing done in a day if you went that route and it won't slump/settle.
The garage is already all wired for electrical? If not, do it now. I'd say two outlets per wall, two on the ceiling and a 240v plug would be minimum
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Yeah, gonna wire it before we start.
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10-13-2016, 11:45 AM
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#1084
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Powerplay Quarterback
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We are looking to replace a gas cooktop in our kitchen. Is this something I can do myself, or do I need a licensed gas fitter to do the work?
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10-13-2016, 12:20 PM
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#1085
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Voted for Kodos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyang
We are looking to replace a gas cooktop in our kitchen. Is this something I can do myself, or do I need a licensed gas fitter to do the work?
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I beleive you need a gas fitter if there is anything more to do than basically a simple quick connector.
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10-13-2016, 12:43 PM
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#1086
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Powerplay Quarterback
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That's what I was afraid of. It seems like a simple procedure that just needs a wrench and some pipe dope, but I guess the possibility of blowing yourself and your neighbors up is too much risk.
So...anyone know a good gas fitter?
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10-13-2016, 12:49 PM
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#1087
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Franchise Player
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http://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbi...leaks/view-all
I don't remember exactly, but I thought anything from the wall pipe to the appliance could be done by the home owner. I would just give 311 a quick call. It is easy to do, use gas fitting tape, it's yellow. I think you are also supposed to replace the flex line when you replace the appliance. They shouldn't be re-used.
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10-13-2016, 01:42 PM
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#1088
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Powerplay Quarterback
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Thanks for the tip of calling 311 - hadn't thought of that. The call was helpful, but didn't give me the news I wanted.
311 passed me on to the gas department where I spoke with a gas inspector. He told me that a gas fitter has to do the work, and further, I would also need a gas permit unless I'm replacing the existing cooktop with another of the same model.
I figure this has to be done right or it may affect home insurance. Ugh.
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10-13-2016, 01:57 PM
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#1089
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Franchise Player
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Well that seams overly strict...I wonder if that is a new regulation, becuase I was sure the gas fitter who put my pipe in said I could hookup the hose myself, as the stove wasn't there at the time. But that was about 8 years ago.
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11-10-2016, 11:56 AM
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#1090
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First Line Centre
Join Date: May 2012
Location: The Kilt & Caber
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I'm hoping for some minor home reno insight and hopefully some recommendations. Our house does not have a back entrance closet, although it has space for one. So I'd like to get someone to come in and build in a simple closet. Does anyone have any trusted contractor recommendations or any idea how much money it would cost for this type of a job?
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11-14-2016, 01:27 PM
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#1091
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evil of fart
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I have an ensuite that is directly above an unfinished storage room. The storage room is in the basement and it is quite cool in there, thus making the floor of the ensuite cool.
I want to insulate the ceiling of the storage room, to hopefully keep the floor of the ensuite warmer. This should help, right? Also, since above the insulation and below the insulation are inside the home, I don't have to worry about a vapour barrier or anything, do I? Thinking of just jamming some insulation in there.
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11-14-2016, 02:16 PM
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#1092
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Not sure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llwhiteoutll
The garage is already all wired for electrical? If not, do it now. I'd say two outlets per wall, two on the ceiling and a 240v plug would be minimum
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Just out of curiosity, what would you be running in a garage that would need 240?
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11-14-2016, 02:19 PM
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#1093
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Franchise Player
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Meth lab.
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11-14-2016, 02:24 PM
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#1094
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Lifetime Suspension
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay
Just out of curiosity, what would you be running in a garage that would need 240?
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A welder.
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11-14-2016, 02:26 PM
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#1095
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliver
I have an ensuite that is directly above an unfinished storage room. The storage room is in the basement and it is quite cool in there, thus making the floor of the ensuite cool.
I want to insulate the ceiling of the storage room, to hopefully keep the floor of the ensuite warmer. This should help, right? Also, since above the insulation and below the insulation are inside the home, I don't have to worry about a vapour barrier or anything, do I? Thinking of just jamming some insulation in there.
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https://www.lowes.ca/foam-insulation..._g1377660.html
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11-14-2016, 02:43 PM
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#1096
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evil of fart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madman
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Seems pretty expensive for a really low R value. I think $45 in fiberglass insulation will be better as I'll have a higher R value and it'll be a fraction of the price, but just not sure if I need a vapor barrier. I think the vapor barrier is just for outside walls so I should be okay, but I'm not certain. There could be a five degree difference in temperature above the insulation versus below. Is that a factor or a non-issue?
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11-14-2016, 04:48 PM
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#1098
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliver
Seems pretty expensive for a really low R value. I think $45 in fiberglass insulation will be better as I'll have a higher R value and it'll be a fraction of the price, but just not sure if I need a vapor barrier. I think the vapor barrier is just for outside walls so I should be okay, but I'm not certain. There could be a five degree difference in temperature above the insulation versus below. Is that a factor or a non-issue?
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You don't need the vapour barrier. Even if you were to put a vapour barrier in, it would have to be on the warm side of the insulation which is difficult to do between joists, and your subfloor is performing as a pseudo vapour barrier anyways.
Unless you're storing dead dogs in there, in which you might want the spray foam to keep the smell down.
Last edited by topfiverecords; 11-14-2016 at 04:53 PM.
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11-14-2016, 05:41 PM
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#1099
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
I'd use it anyway to keep the dust out of the insulation and hold the insulation in place. Calgary gets frequent earthquakes, best to keep it secure.
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Not a good idea. Vapor barriers serve a specific purpose, and putting them on the cold side of insulation or between two heated areas of different temperature can cause moisture to get trapped in the structure.
If you want to insulate under the floor and it's going to stay open, I wouldn't attempt any kind of vapor barrier. Just throw up some batt insulation and retain it somehow. You can do something as simple as zig zagging string or wire across, or you could staple up some kind of mesh or chicken wire, or you can buy things like these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...R100/100375163
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11-14-2016, 05:45 PM
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#1100
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evil of fart
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Oh wow, really glad you guys chimed in. I just finished insulating it and I was going to put a vapor barrier in tomorrow. Instead, I'll just secure with webbing and call it a day. Thanks again.
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