Washing machine leaking after water shut off in condo building

[Nabber]

Currently our washing machine is leaking at our apartment, noting too major, through the bottom of the washing machine it seems. It started back in December last year, we had an appliance repair person come out and fix it. It worked here and there, but every time there’s a water shutoff in the building, when it’s back on, it leaks again. Those happen every other month. We're on the 21st floor.

Someone in the building mentioned putting on stronger clamps. A few plumbers I’ve talked to don’t know what that means. Anyone have any ideas on this? Know any plumbers who may help?

At this point we’re debating just replacing the washing machine and really hoping that fixes it. We’ve already have the applicant repair person come out twice to try a fix it, but it’s not working going forward.

Thanks!

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by Nabber

Currently our washing machine is leaking at our apartment, noting too major, through the bottom of the washing machine it seems. It started back in December last year, we had an appliance repair person come out and fix it. It worked here and there, but every time there’s a water shutoff in the building, when it’s back on, it leaks again. Those happen every other month. We're on the 21st floor.

Someone in the building mentioned putting on stronger clamps. A few plumbers I’ve talked to don’t know what that means. Anyone have any ideas on this? Know any plumbers who may help?

At this point we’re debating just replacing the washing machine and really hoping that fixes it. We’ve already have the applicant repair person come out twice to try a fix it, but it’s not working going forward.

Thanks!

Aren't repair guys, like, $100/visit?

I'm at the point where I'll YouTube my appliance repairs and fix them myself. If I can't do it I buy a new one. It's never worth it calling a guy IMO. There will be two call outs (if they can repair). First one to diagnose, then they'll order parts (they never have what you need with them), then they come back. It's not a rip off as their time has value, but there is zero point throwing a few hundred bucks at an old appliance.

As my stuff goes down I'm replacing things with analogue. My newest appliance is a dryer. It has a dial for the modes and a start button. No computer, no screen, no BS.

In your shoes I'd look for a basic washer and replace that mofo. Taking a chance on a water leak in your home after you've tried to fix it twice already is madness. Totally not worth the risk. Maybe go to the Laundry Store and look for an affordable barebones washer with no computer or any extra crap that you truly don't need. Does it have a drum to spin, temp control and an on button? That's what you want. Forget all these extras...just stuff to break that does nothing, anyway.

[#-3]

Front load?

Have you check the filter on your drain line? Some brands are easier and harder to get at. but if a little bit of pressure is building up it will leak, they're not exactly air tight seals on the filters. Good chance a sock or something made it though the drum somehow and is clogging that up.

[Nabber]

Originally Posted by Sliver

Aren't repair guys, like, $100/visit?

I'm at the point where I'll YouTube my appliance repairs and fix them myself. If I can't do it I buy a new one. It's never worth it calling a guy IMO. There will be two call outs (if they can repair). First one to diagnose, then they'll order parts (they never have what you need with them), then they come back. It's not a rip off as their time has value, but there is zero point throwing a few hundred bucks at an old appliance.

As my stuff goes down I'm replacing things with analogue. My newest appliance is a dryer. It has a dial for the modes and a start button. No computer, no screen, no BS.

In your shoes I'd look for a basic washer and replace that mofo. Taking a chance on a water leak in your home after you've tried to fix it twice already is madness. Totally not worth the risk. Maybe go to the Laundry Store and look for an affordable barebones washer with no computer or any extra crap that you truly don't need. Does it have a drum to spin, temp control and an on button? That's what you want. Forget all these extras...just stuff to break that does nothing, anyway.

Yep, appliance person was $150 first visit, with that going towards the repair if done, which was $420 or so total. They did come again for free, but after 5 or 6 months it seems to be back.

I like your advice to YouTube and try to self diagnose, I should have done that. It's actually my mother and father in laws rental property, so harder for me to poke around there, with the tenant around, but I'm sure I could have. A bit nervous to buy the new washing machine, then the seal just isn't tight enough to the hookup causing the leak, but it does appears that leak is coming from the inside of the washing machine, so best to replace. Not worth it to screw around as if water leaks down, big problem.

Thanks for the tips!!

[Nabber]

Originally Posted by #-3

Front load?

Have you check the filter on your drain line? Some brands are easier and harder to get at. but if a little bit of pressure is building up it will leak, they're not exactly air tight seals on the filters. Good chance a sock or something made it though the drum somehow and is clogging that up.

It is a front load, yes. Filter did seem fine, but I'll actually do a second check just to double check that, as reading online I saw that too. Thanks!

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by Nabber

Yep, appliance person was $150 first visit, with that going towards the repair if done, which was $420 or so total. They did come again for free, but after 5 or 6 months it seems to be back.

I like your advice to YouTube and try to self diagnose, I should have done that. It's actually my mother and father in laws rental property, so harder for me to poke around there, with the tenant around, but I'm sure I could have. A bit nervous to buy the new washing machine, then the seal just isn't tight enough to the hookup causing the leak, but it does appears that leak is coming from the inside of the washing machine, so best to replace. Not worth it to screw around as if water leaks down, big problem.

Thanks for the tips!!

Yeah, that's my experience as well. You have $420 into an old washer (other parts will go, so it's not like it's good as new now, anyway) that still doesn't work. Happens every single time.

$175 more and you'd have had a new (and basic) machine:
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ama...ite/1001025120

Upgrade quality as budget allows, but my point is you have $420 into the old machine and it still needs at least another call out ($150) plus parts and time to fix. It never seems worth it. Just buying a new machine is cheaper than getting an old one fixed if you aren't going to DIY.

The other thing is the repair always takes longer because they do two visits and wait for a parts order in between. Being down any appliance is such a pain. Buy new and you'll be up and running faster for cheaper.

[Bring_Back_Shantz]

Youtube is a good resource.

There is a chance that the leak is just coming from where a rubber hose goes over/connects to a plastic fitting. I had a similar problem, this is where the "Stronger Clamps" comes in.

A lot of those connections are just hooked up with tension clamps, they're just big springs.
I replaced that with a proper screw down hose clamp. Be careful not to over tighten, if you do that.

Honestly, step 1 is to get in there and figure out where the leak is coming from then you can figure out what you need to do to fix it.
It's less complicated than you think, if you're at all mechanically inclined, you'll be able to follow along on youtube and figure it out.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Sliver

Buy new and you'll be up and running faster for cheaper.

I'm just morally opposed to throwing away things in need of minor repairs and then buying a newly manufactured thing shipped in from overseas.

The practicality of a new one makes sense, but I get belligerent about DIY trying to avoid it.

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

I'm just morally opposed to throwing away things in need of minor repairs and then buying a newly manufactured thing shipped in from overseas.

The practicality of a new one makes sense, but I get belligerent about DIY trying to avoid it.

Yeah, try DIY first. If you can't DIY it, nuke it.

[Nabber]

Originally Posted by Sliver

Yeah, that's my experience as well. You have $420 into an old washer (other parts will go, so it's not like it's good as new now, anyway) that still doesn't work. Happens every single time.

$175 more and you'd have had a new (and basic) machine:
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ama...ite/1001025120

Upgrade quality as budget allows, but my point is you have $420 into the old machine and it still needs at least another call out ($150) plus parts and time to fix. It never seems worth it. Just buying a new machine is cheaper than getting an old one fixed if you aren't going to DIY.

The other thing is the repair always takes longer because they do two visits and wait for a parts order in between. Being down any appliance is such a pain. Buy new and you'll be up and running faster for cheaper.

Yes super annoying spending that, which would pay for at least half of a new washing machine. Lesson learned on appliance repair and trying to DIY. They get you with the well you have to pay $150 to come out, may as well spend the extra $250 more to fix it.

[Nabber]

Originally Posted by Bring_Back_Shantz

Youtube is a good resource.

There is a chance that the leak is just coming from where a rubber hose goes over/connects to a plastic fitting. I had a similar problem, this is where the "Stronger Clamps" comes in.

A lot of those connections are just hooked up with tension clamps, they're just big springs.
I replaced that with a proper screw down hose clamp. Be careful not to over tighten, if you do that.

Honestly, step 1 is to get in there and figure out where the leak is coming from then you can figure out what you need to do to fix it.
It's less complicated than you think, if you're at all mechanically inclined, you'll be able to follow along on youtube and figure it out.

Good tip, thanks! It does seem like this situation could be the problem. I'll look a bit harder into the connection.

[lazypucker]

I had my washing machine leaking before and after some googling I learned that there is something called a water inlet valve that controls the water intake from the pipe.

You may want to google that and have it checked out. The replacement part is not expensive (like $40) and you can certainly do it on your own without any special tools.

Give it a try

[PepsiFree]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

I'm just morally opposed to throwing away things in need of minor repairs and then buying a newly manufactured thing shipped in from overseas.

The practicality of a new one makes sense, but I get belligerent about DIY trying to avoid it.

I’m like Sliver, try for the DIY but go for new if it’s not something you can figure out yourself, but that doesn’t mean it’s dump time.

Surprisingly, there seems to be a market for decent-condition appliances in need of repairs. I think repair guys buy them up, fix them for cheap, and re-sell them as “refurbs” or whatever.

Always try to sell the old one (for cheap), even if it has an issue. Worst case, you give it away for free and save yourself the $$$ to dump it.

[SeeGeeWhy]

Routine procedure after shutting in a main is to drain the system at a low point before doing any plumbing work. Even if the system isn't drained, air will get in the lines any time the main is closed. That air will find it's way out of the pipes eventually, usually through sinks and toilets (and washing machine lines) at higher points in the system.

Air is compressible, water is not. When the water is turned back on, you have a bunch of air bubbles moving through the pipe. The little "slugs" of water between the air bubbles get forced through with tremendous energy and they act like little battering rams when they turn corners, hit valves, etc. That effect is called hammering. It is super common to have old pipes or bad connections fail when you're putting a system back in service after shutting it in and draining it. I'd bet this is what happening for you.

Does the laundry box your hot and cold water supply lines come off have something that look like these little bits of extra pipe?



These are called hammer arrestors and they work like little springs in a hydraulic system. They can "absorb" small amounts of pressure spikes in the water system to protect connections and equipment from bursting.

Put them in if they aren't there already.

Also make sure the supply line is not cracked and the little rubber gasket in the female end of the supply line is in good shape. Replace if not. If there isn't a gasket on purpose, be sure to put teflon tape on the threads of the male end on the washing machine before making up the connection.

Also, if you know the water was shut off, try to purge the air from the lines from the sinks near your washer first as a best practice. Just try to prevent the hammering from hitting the washing machine if you can.

Last, let your building manager/maintenance people know this happens every time they shut the water off and you'll be sending them the invoice for repairing fixtures, appliances or water damage if they don't get their S together and start recommissioning the system properly. Suggest they put in hammer arrestors or coin vents at high points in common areas.

Good luck

[Rutuu]

Do we have a forum appliance repair guy? That would be amazing just for the ability to ask the issue and get advice on whether to try repairing or go new.

[calumniate]

https://appliantology.org/

Talked to the owner of this site years ago. He's hilarious

Edit - oh wow the forums appear to be paid subscriptions now or something :/

[Nabber]

Originally Posted by SeeGeeWhy

Routine procedure after shutting in a main is to drain the system at a low point before doing any plumbing work. Even if the system isn't drained, air will get in the lines any time the main is closed. That air will find it's way out of the pipes eventually, usually through sinks and toilets (and washing machine lines) at higher points in the system.

Air is compressible, water is not. When the water is turned back on, you have a bunch of air bubbles moving through the pipe. The little "slugs" of water between the air bubbles get forced through with tremendous energy and they act like little battering rams when they turn corners, hit valves, etc. That effect is called hammering. It is super common to have old pipes or bad connections fail when you're putting a system back in service after shutting it in and draining it. I'd bet this is what happening for you.

Does the laundry box your hot and cold water supply lines come off have something that look like these little bits of extra pipe?



These are called hammer arrestors and they work like little springs in a hydraulic system. They can "absorb" small amounts of pressure spikes in the water system to protect connections and equipment from bursting.

Put them in if they aren't there already.

Also make sure the supply line is not cracked and the little rubber gasket in the female end of the supply line is in good shape. Replace if not. If there isn't a gasket on purpose, be sure to put teflon tape on the threads of the male end on the washing machine before making up the connection.

Also, if you know the water was shut off, try to purge the air from the lines from the sinks near your washer first as a best practice. Just try to prevent the hammering from hitting the washing machine if you can.

Last, let your building manager/maintenance people know this happens every time they shut the water off and you'll be sending them the invoice for repairing fixtures, appliances or water damage if they don't get their S together and start recommissioning the system properly. Suggest they put in hammer arrestors or coin vents at high points in common areas.

Good luck

Amazing information. Thank you so much for this. I'm sure we don't have any hammer arrestors so will look into that for sure, but really really appreciate this info. Super helpful, gives me something else to look into, plus the building seems to do way too many water shut offs.